Today we woke to pouring rain so quick change of plan instead of finishing cycling the Rhine and jumping on a train to France to start the Moselle river we decided just to return to Chur and stay the night in case we were soaking wet.Hubby had heard thunder and lightning all night and pouring rain I think I would have slept through anything, well clearly I did. Unable to get my stretches done this morning the ceiling was too low…

Spectacular descent out of Versam switchbacks and hairpin bends scarier than anything we’d yet cycled down right down to a bridge spanning the Ruinaulta gorge. We then had to go up on what our guide book describes as the most dangerous section of the whole Rhine cycle route with rockfalls, narrow road with sheer drops and minimal overtaking spots. At least my panniers were lighter with food being eaten last night but it was with a certain amount of reluctance I started pedalling as once on this section there was no way out.

Bike lights were on due to the cloudy conditions but the tunnels didnt have lights at all….am I in modern Switzerland I wondered.?The incline was manageable and a few spots you could stop to admire the gorge as you couldnt look at the scenery when you were cycling.The descent through thick pine forests to Bonoduz was great and fairly straight so you could relax and enjoy it.

 

The scenery was beautiful between lush meadows and next to the Rhine really flowing fast today. After the joining of several rivers into the Rhine there was the only warning sign of the whole trip about the forthcoming ascent. It directed you to the train station as an alternative route. So we were climbing 65metres in 0.8km doesnt sound too bad..however at that point the sun decided to come out typical.

We both weren’t sure we’d make it but the thought of pushing our bikes up I think was worse so we kept pedalling.So we managed the whole thing and were puffed for a short while but as it was cooler than yesterday  ok within a few minutes, once we ‘d  got up to the village square.We were so impressed when we think back to the beginning of our holiday and we’d be pushing our bikes up hills all the time, somehow we’ve got fitter.

 

Another beautiful descent between the meadows and through the valley and gradually back into industrial suburbs of Chur and finally into the old town of Chur where we had a celebratory lunch.We returned to the friendly Hotel Post who as we’d returned gave us an upgrade so now time to soak in the bath before off to France tomorrow to start the Mosel/Moselle.

 

RHINE SUMMARY

KILOMETRES- 1680 cycled along the Rhine,  the normal route with no diversions or seeing sights is recorded as 1380kms.

Daily average-50kms

CYCLING DAYS -35        out of 45 days.   Full Days off approx  10 although we still undertook  very short rides around Lindau,  plus we cycled quite a few shorter days on very hot days or if we wanted to see specific sights  eg. Friedrichshaven the Dornier Museum. Could be cycled in 1 month if you had no breaks.

HIGHLIGHTS

• Holland dykes,windmills  and land below river level
• Mediaeval towns and bridges
• Seeing changes of the Rhine
• Chance happenings; guest house with roof top terrace, being waved off by hotel staff or guest house owners, the magical swiss singing in the hills, the trumpeter in Bad Sackingen etc
• Considerate drivers especially in Germany and Holland, the Swiss are generally very good but a minority do like to go fast!
• Completing the Alpine section which we’d never planned to do
• Learning about geography,history and culture of Europe en route
• For hubby actually  finishing this finalises his full recovery from his late diagnosed hole in his heart and 2 years of seriously poor health

PREWORRIES

Security of bikes, so far this has not been a problem and majority of hotels/guest houses ensure your bikes are locked away.

Navigation; if you do go wrong everyone is generally happy to help

Aches and pains- occasional problems have been able to be stretched out