In Heidelberg we were left with a dilemma not enough time to head off to Denmark but too early to head off to Amsterdam, so we decided to head to a picturesque part of Holland and see a few of the islands. If we’d finished later wed planned to cycle along the Main canal to Frankfurt where you can catch a direct train to Amsterdam.
It was to be our first venture on a german high speed ICE train so we booked the day before to make sure our bikes had a reservation, essential on this train. We turned up at 8am ready to board but couldnt see our train on the departure board. I rushed off to information, yes it was running back down to platform I went. Then a notice came up our ICE train wasnt going to Heidelberg as it was running late. I dashed up to the ticket office who told me it was running so late it wasnt coming to Heidelberg but to catch a train to Mannheim and we could pick it up there.Off we went to Mannheim by train and rushed to the designated platform but no sign of our train another ICE train was leaving for Dusseldorf so we tried to get on that, no we werent allowed on it it didnt take bikes. A lady on the platform told us she’d had a terrible time travelling with her bike a few weeks ago as so many trains were cancelled.Great!!
Back to the ticket office in Mannheim who told us our train wasnt going now and we’d have to catch the next one in 2 hours that had a bike wagon but first she’d have to check if there were any bike spaces left on it. Luckily there were spaces and we’d already waited 1 hour, we were then given a form to fill in so we could get 50% of our fare back for the inconvenience!
Once we did get on the ICE train the wifi on the train wasnt working and we had to move seats as people can reserve tneir seats but you have no idea that you are sitting in a reserved seat. Next 2 changes of trains went well but our final one, 5th of the day we had 7mins to change trains. We came in on plateform 14 and had to get to 7, we ran and carried our bikes down the steps and then up 2 flights of steps, just made it!Our late departure meant we were now travelling in rush hour in Holland and you are not allowed to have bikes with luggage on during rush hour luckily no officials saw us. My arms were giving way half way up second flight of stairs and some kind person helped lift my back wheel or we wouldnt have made the final train.Hubby was struggling ahead of me.
At last we arrived at Leeuwarden and our ticket barcodes from Germany wouldnt open the gates and let us out. We then had to find an inspector to let us out he thought it very funny we were stuck in the station.Leeuwarden is a great dutch town centred around the canals. Our bed and breakfast was in a 17th century old house full of character.
We woke to rain and a full on strong head wind to head off to the coast. Relatively easy go get out of Leeuwarden you simply cycle past their leaning tower and you pick up the main cycle path with all the numbers on. In Holland you cycle by numbered way markers so we’d popped into the tourist bureau and picked up our maps for the day. Great to be back in the wide open countryside, we were cycling along one canal past a small cafe when a group of dutch cyclists called to us. So a 2nd coffee stop was called for to chat to the dutch cyclists and have a break from the rain and wind. They were all using electric bikes.!!The dutch are very friendly and love to find out about your travels.
It was an entertaining ride as tbe rabbits seemed to have gone crazy with the wind and were running around in circles.The wind was so strong you were being blown sideways I did wonder if I got blown into a canal would I get submerged with my bike?..The traditional dutch barn houses are everywhere, in fact the bed and breakfast we are staying in is also a dutch barn. We’re enclosed tonight in another one of those wooden dutch box beds cosy.
Plenty of circular cycling tours in this area. We’re off to see one of the Wadden Islands tomorrow, the quietest one with no cars.Its a very small island so wont be clocking up too many kms.
Leeuwarden- bed and breakfast Bij de Waagsbrug , nieuwestad 135 80 euro
Great breakfast, room good and huge bathroom, good location.
Bed and breakfast Lauwersstate , Paesens 60 euro near ferry to island