We left Mantova at the crack of dawn, we had decided to train it out as 72kms at 32C and humid might have finished us off. We had to catch the 630am train to Romanone as after that there wasnt a bike train till 930am, too late in the heat. The ticket office had told us also that the conductor could turn us away if the train was too busy, it was pretty empty so an easy train ride. So by 7am we were cycling along the dyke paths at a very moody time of day with a heat haze shimmering.By 8am rivulets of sweat were running down my back it was going to be a hot one.

We had tried to get more Po maps at the tourist information office in Mantova but we were cycling into the next region so nothing to do with them. She advised us to buy a map in the book shop which then happened to be shut for 4 days, only in Italy.! So we were mapless and tnere was a choice of routes, I think we chose the wrong one, it stuck more to the left bank of tbe Po but on some quite overgrown dykes and a lot of gravel but nothing too bad. Not another tourist cyclist seen at all today, about 10 tractors passed us, some huge and they didnt slow down we had to get out of the way.

We had to divert for a coffee stop into a small town, San Matteo and the managers son spoke english. So coffee and orza lasted a lot longer than normal.He recommended Sardinia and Puglia in Italy and anywhere in the south is much cheaper, He also said not many people cycle in June as normally its to hot , not quite sure when the cycling season is here now!

I can see us coming back to Italy. Hubby and the owners son got into discussing the woes and the ups of the Italian and european car and motorcycle industry, it was lucky we escaped at all once cars start being talked about.

We crossed the Oglio river a tributary of the Po on a very rickety wooden bridge that cars were also going over, I did my usual as fast as possible strategy for dodgy bridges.

As we neared Viandana the dyke path disappeared and we were suddenly plunged onto a busy main road.We thought this cant be right the route must go through Viandana , so in we went to see another quaint town . Hubby decided he needed another coffee to look at the route on our phones a custard filled croissant also slipped in, it was exceptional yummy the cafe was run by vietnamese! Yes the route did go on the main road a bit longer before we were back on a dyke path.

Lunch we arrived in Caselmaggiore and having our bikes loaded up with luggage limited our choices of restaurants , so not the gourmet experiences of Mantova.The heat and humidity was increasing so we were glad of an early check in at our bed and breakfast. Later in the cool we wandered around the town and went up to the Po river where the owners husband was coaching rowing teams. He came to Tasmania in 1980 to compete in a rowing competition and had competed in the olympics.

We set off as early as possible with breakfast at 7am it wasnt that early but it wasn’t as humid today and we were more loaded up with water. There were a few signs as we left Casalmaggiore and that was it . We were left with a maze of dykes and country lanes and no signs .We had managed to get an overview map from the tourist bureau in Casalmaggiore but it didnt have the fine detail you really needed with no signs. So many a junction we were huddled in the shade trying to see google maps and where to go.

Coffee was at a proper ristorante for once in Motta Balutti, I just love these place names.Generally if we were stuck at a junction fast road bikes would stop and point us in the direction of Cremona, which was nice of them, slowing their averages down.

Towards lunch we were struggling with which dyke to take and in which direction, 4 choices 3 said Po on it. Luckily a lady on a shopping type of bike arrived and said she was going down to the Po river to the restaurant for lunch so we cycled with her. We learnt that the land from the river side of the dyke down to the river is rented out by the government cheaply but if it floods they accept no responsibility.Our new found friend was only having a quick sandwich so we lost her after our long lunch (potted duck for hubby my river perch looked a bit skinny) but getting into Cremona proved very simple. One dyke past tne city and then a right turn in, we didnt manage this on our own other cyclists told us where to go.

The most exciting event today was suddenly realising mountains were visible. We were heading towards the Alps and could see snow covered peaks in the distance,Tractor report of day, 7.The worst one had a load of grass on the back of his wagon that was flying off over us. I think the use of raw manure or sewage on agricultural land is forbidden in the EU but at times it certainly smells like it as we cycle past,

We are staying in a historic hotel right in the city centre.We had more energy today without the humidity so rushed out to climb what was for a long time the highest bell tower in europe 510 steps.Quite incredible that they built this in the 12th century.The tower has a clock whose workings are still operating from the 15th century, its one of those astronomical clocks so tells when eclipses are going to happen etc.Cremona is also famous for violin making which has been part of the tradition of the town since the 1400s. Stradivari had his workshops here and the museum has quite a few of his violins on display. We arrived too late for a recital in the auditorium of one of the historical instruments, which was a shame but they had an incredible dome to go on which gave you the experience of being in the middle of an orchestra.

Cremona is a lovely town to wander around, cobblestones and beautiful shops. I’m not looking in any of the shops anymore as I was tempted by a lightweight jacket in Mantova, I was very untempted when I learnt the price 260 euros. Chill time on the balcony enjoying the bustle of the town.Buonasera!