After 3 nights in Flensburg in our comfortable appartment right amidst small cobble stone streets and 2 minutes from the harbour we packed up. The going up and down of 6 flights of stairs 4X every day made cycling a so much better option! We enjoyed the Flensburg museum it was like the good old days with displays of animals or historical pictures or furnishings no interactive buttons to press. The Christian Anderson museum only displayed about 5 of his pictures maybe less than normal due to a huge photographic display dedicated to the Russian-Ukranian War.We did queue with the masses to sample the smoked fish in bread rolls with a hint of salad from the famous fish hut at the harbour. The fish was great but would have been even better without the great hunk of bread.Tim hunted down a large bike shop in Flensburg on one day and we peddled out to get his tyre changed. His back tyre had developed big splits in it , hence it was getting dangerously terminal.

So today we headed off along the coast.Yes change of plan we looked at the Oxen route in Denmark through the middle and saw up to 15kms at a time of rough track through the forests, and with rain supposedly coming we have decided to head off to the Islands. Heading off today however did mean a few of those perilous forest tracks and I’m sure all of Germany heard me as I screamed my way dowhill perilously out of control with Tim yelling behind me slow down.Im reluctant to use brakes in case I lock my wheels up…Within the hour we were at the Danish border one small bridge to walk over and we were in Denmark.A concrete post also marked the border one of the 280 that defined the new border in 1920 after northern schleswig was given back to Denmark and is now southern jutland.

We marvelled at the beautiful smooth bike paths no damaged country lanes or bike paths here.Other cyclists alerted us to diversions and made sure we went the right way, and also told us how to get coffee. You enter a supermarket called Brugsen and head to the bakers who also always serve coffee. Luckily Brugsens also had cash machine outside we had forgotten Denmark doesn’t use euros they still have Kroners, oops.The coffee and tea were just passable but the free apple cake samples made up for it.There were little wooden shelters you could sit outside in to drink your coffee, you just couldnt stand up too quickly or you’d knock yourself out.

It was on past immaculate majestic houses and shady forest paths till we reached Sondeberg on the island of Als, a bridge crossing took us right into the centre.Tall brightly coloured houses dotted the shoreline.

Just before Sondeberg we came across the memorial to the 1864 war, 400 Danish soldiers were buried on the hill.Impressive museum and extensive memorials around the whole hillside.

We ended up seeing all of the cobbled city centre of sondeborg as we went the wrong way to the hotel.Trying to find our hotel we passed imposing old army barracks again other cyclists directed us towards the hotel they had also been peddling round trying to find it.

When we saw the hotel we wondered if we had accidently ended up in Russia, we were confronted by a concrete edifice. At our allotted time we punched our numbers in and we could get into our stark room, any earlier the numbers didnt work. No reception staff at all.In the evening we wandered down to the waterfront and ended up at a curry house for dinner, where we were taught which relishes to have when eating what curry.The curry house appeared to be the cheaper of available options.We had to book our ferrys for the next days island hopping so it was a 6am start to make sure we made it to the ferry on time so an early night was called for.

Yes this is a hotel not a parking lot!!Stark Danish style!!

Yes I am wearing slightly warmer clothes but still not cold enough for my winter cycling clothes and my backpack of waterproofs has only been used once…shall I post them back??