After 2 relaxing days in Sesimbra it was with some reluctance we packed up ready to cycle again. Sesimbra is a pretty coastal town with beautiful beaches. Historically it was always famous as a fishing port and in the 1930s had numerous canneries. It still is a fishing port but not the small artisanal family fishing businesses with traditional wooden boats of the past. We walked up to the castle on tracks through the forest, parts of the castle dating back to the 900s. There are forts on both sides of the town, a great maritime museum , an archaeological museum and a small historic centre of old houses. Our favourite coffee place is at the beach cabana even though it is not that warm. Our apartment was in the Quinta del Palmas block, facing the forest and was very quiet and peaceful, plenty of bird song and you could hear a small stream. No wonder we didn’t want to leave.

Still our bikes had to get back to Lisbon. From Sesimbra it was a 160m climb up from the sea; a headwind, sun dazzling you, and a very busy road. I had used 12% of our battery by the time the road flattened out, Tim 16%.I’d used so much battery as to start off I had to put it into highest mode sport or be sliding backwards down the hill. We needed hot drinks to recover and fortify ourselves as the road ahead didn’t look much better. We were forced into the emergency lane as the road was so busy. The emergency lane was rarely good, mainly broken up road potholes, sand, loose gravel so it was a lot of concentration to keep upright, no daydreaming possible. Then we encountered a new hazard cycling through one town. The round drain covers had sunk down about 6cms and the surrounding area had also sank down enough to throw you off your bike and they were dotted everywhere. It did mean we had no idea what scenery we were passing too busy watching the road surfaces.

We did pass through a few small towns, strange how you would have nice modern buildings and old well maintained buildings then a beautiful old building totally derelict, even though it has a historic plaque on it.

We had a moment of excitement when 2 police cars came through followed by 3 large blue NATO trucks and a motorbike.Horns were going, lights flashing and everyone had to get out of their way.There is a NATO strike force base west of Lisbon aswell as one northwest of Sesimbra on the coast as Portugal is one of NATOs main bases. When we reached Corroios a cycle path magically appeared, it was intermittent though but came back permanently as we approached Armada.Such a relief not to be on busy roads, even though the roads were labelled as an international cycle route. Armada looked like it had a good maritime museum with a beautiful 1800s teak frigate on display and a 1960s submarine. We cycled into Armada past derelict graffitified warehouses kilometres of them. Even on the main Tagus river front heading towards the large suspension bridge, the bridge of 25th April there were derelict warehouses, some inhabited by squatters, who were taking it in turns to fish, free food.The Armada castle was way up above us, accessed by a lift, which the bikes wouldn’t fit in so it didn’t get a visit. We were taking photos along the Tagus river front when we met someone from Perth! Its a small world.

We cycled round to a restaurant and had lunch overlooking the river. Fish here are so delicious and so reasonable, compared to eating fish in Australia.Maybe the fishermen aren’t well paid here.

It was a short ferry trip across to Lisbon and then we cycled to Belem, a part of Lisbon we had yet to visit. It was hard to reach our Hotel but fortunately I spotted a cycle path next to a busy road going over a bridge so we could cross the railway, a big obstacle in our way, and reach our historic hotel the former house of the Governor of Belem’s Tower, the house was built in the 1700s.There is more space in Belem so this hotel has an underground garage and parking for our bikes. Belem is very arty a big art gallery as we came in, a huge monastery and beautiful gardens. Belem’s main claim to fame is the historic Belem tower built on a basalt outcrop in the sea to welcome seafarers returning from their voyages of exploration which the Portuguese were so famous for. Its foundations were started in the 14th century and finally finished in the 18th century.

When they were renovating the Governor’s House to turn it into a hotel they found old Roman ruins of more fish processing plants.These are exposed underground for us to see as we enter the hotel.Amazing to think we are sleeping where Romans once lived, 2000 years of people sleeping and living here,wow.Actually maybe not wow hold your noses fish processing plants even in Roman times were well away from the main town.

Tomorrow day 28 it is the end of our bike trip our square is complete and our bikes return to the shop, Bike Iberia in Cais de Sodre. There is a wiggly cycle route from Belem back to Cais de Sodre, where the bike shop is so makes for an easy ride to hand our bikes back in.We can then walk back up to the Memoria Lisboa Hotel who were happy to store our bags that we brought our panniers over in and a few extra things to wear in Lisbon.

Hotel with bicycle parking in Lisbon and on cycle route to bike Iberia shop for bike hire, is Nau Palacio do Governado,Belem.

Tomorrow day 28 it is the end of our bike trip our square is complete and our bikes return to the shop, Bike Iberia in Cais de Sodre. There is a wiggly cycle route from Belem back to Cais de Sodre, where the bike shop is so makes for an easy ride to hand our bikes back in.We can then walk back up to the Memoria Lisboa Hotel who were happy to store our bags that we brought our panniers over in and a few extra things to wear in Lisbon.

Hotel with bicycle parking in Lisbon and on cycle route to bike Iberia shop for bike hire, is Nau Palacio do Governado,Belem.

SUMMARY

E-Bikes

We did 1220kms in 22 days but some of those were also shorter days.We managed strong headwinds, torrential rain (one day) and still could keep going.It would have taken us twice the time on a normal bike.Actually we might still be out there pushing our bikes up the hills.Tims arthritic knee was none the worse for wear and neither of us had any saddle issues.? because of less time in the saddle.So maybe it is time to consider e-bikes for touring. Iberia was not set up like Germany or Austria not one ebike charging station.

Our rental bikes were reasonable but I lost my lowest gears early on and Tim had the gear shifter problem, tyres were very worn on Tims bike, electrics started acting up on Tim’s bike etc but the bikes got us back to Lisbon.The spanner signal we were getting on our displays the shop said was probably a software update being needed.

THE ROUTE

The good Portugese roads had a good emergency lane to cycle in, but if there was nowhere to go many Portugese drivers didn’t pass safely and would pass within inches of you. Portugese roads have the highest road fatalities in Western Europe so maybe avoid till their infrastructure improves or hire gravel bikes.

Spanish drivers seemed to be more patient and if the road was particularly narrow a cycle track of sorts would appear.

TOWNS

Most of the towns we visited were either scenic or had history attached to them.Merida was a real surprise so interesting.Even staying in a guest house in the countryside had its own charm.

EXCESS LUGGAGE

What didn’t I use; my beach towel a thin microfibre towel, my bathers I wore in saunas and steam rooms and spas, they never saw the beach.I packed 2 Tshirts I only ever wore one and I never wore my summer cycling top.

Tim always packs too much…

EBIKE ACCESSORIES

Yes, it makes a mockery of me packing skimpy undies to save weight when I am given a lock weighing 1.5kgs! On top of this was a heavy tool box including things like the spare inner tube which we used.Then there was my battery charger which I had to carry.Tim had things like the pump and tyre levers.

Why was I carrying the lock and toolbox? This was because we both had the same battery size but Tim’s bike weighs more and he weighs about 30kg more than me, so if he carried more weight his battery would perform even worse.

THANK GOODNESS LUGGAGE ITEMS

My winter rain gloves, cycling beanie, merino singlet (worn under my cycling shirt on those wet and windy days), a lightweight merino top I wore after cycling on those wet,cold days.

Till 2025 our next cycling adventure, we hope…God willing and the body..